Broken English

The menu's four dinner entrees (sometimes also available for lunch) comprise three English specialties we all know -- fish and chips, shepherd's pie, and bangers and mash -- plus a peppercorn New York strip steak. I'm told the selection is now supplemented by blackboard specials such as a roast of the day, steak-and-kidney pie, and chicken puff pastry pie. But as these options hadn't been put into motion yet, on our visits we stuck with the familiar. And we weren't disappointed.

Shepherd's pie was scrumptious, ground sirloin simmered in port, laced with sweet green peas, and blanketed with garlic mashed potatoes (plus one nearly whole undercooked potato that must have been too hard for the masher). This casserole was accompanied by fresh, verdant broccoli, a real, nonsoggy treat. Fish and chips were equally mouthwatering, if a little less nutritious. A huge fillet of supple Icelandic cod was encased in a crisp Whitbread ale batter and served with the requisite fries -- which were terrific -- and malt vinegar.

For dessert, English sherry trifle and chocolate whiskey pie were letdowns. The trifle was a flat-out failure, the ladyfingers oversoaked with potent sherry, which also overwhelmed the unsweetened whipped cream. The pie had more promise, brownielike layers sandwiching vanilla ice cream. But the Bushmill's Irish whiskey sauce was overpowering, and, reminiscent of the potato in the shepherd's pie, one of the layers seemed petrified, defying spoon and teeth. We couldn't even pierce it with a fork.

Location Info


Lord Nelson Pub and Eatery

320 SW Second St.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Fort Lauderdale

Service needs some improvement too. Our waitress was kind but managed to knock over a drink, leave her rag on the table after mopping it up, and then forget about taking the rest of our order, which she'd interrupted to clean up the mess. Appetizer dishes weren't cleared before entrees appeared, and for some reason the tops of our sandwiches were brought out after the sandwiches themselves.

A simple training program might take care of these annoying little glitches; after all, life's daily irritations are the reason we escape to pubs. And as an escape -- from the hot Florida sun, from the office, even from the confines of traditional British pub fare -- Lord Nelson has plenty of potential.

Lord Nelson Pub & Eatery
320 SW 2nd St, Fort Lauderdale; 954-467-5867. Lunch and dinner daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.; Friday and Saturday until 3:00 a.m.

Cook's whim soup
Turkey carver sandwich
Shepherd's pie
Fish and chips
Chocolate whiskey pie

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