Off the Rails

Our uneven ride continued with the dessert course. Creme brulee also tasted like it had alcohol in it, and while the burnt sugar crust was warm, the custard was still cold. A better bet was the slice of chocolate pecan pie, which was large and hearty with huge, chocolate-laced nuts.

In more ways that one, HTW is a shaky operation. Most of the reviews hanging on the walls, for example, are for other restaurants for which Hall has worked, and the kitchen seems to have its own shorthand. Stuart writes in his book that the Pullman carriage he adored was eventually destroyed by Hurricane Andrew. Unless some are improvements are made, Hoot, Toot & Whistle won't need a strong storm to knock it over.

Hoot, Toot & Whistle. 290 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561-243-0140. Dinner Sunday-Thursday from 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m.

Closed Location

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