Double U Pleasure

The heavier, Northern European items are perfectly suitable for the area's residents. Galt Ocean Mile is known for its snowbirds, who occupy the condominiums lining the street. As for those of us who suffer through the summer months, one of the three pasta dishes is more appropriate. The duck ravioli, six al dente pockets packed with boneless pieces of the game bird, were both delicate and satisfying. A thin but assertive port-wine sauce balanced a garnish of shredded fried leeks and buttery, toasted pine nuts.

Two fish dishes were fabulous and might be best enjoyed outside at one of the cafe tables. A snapper fillet had been pan-fried and set over a tangy tomato beurre blanc heightened by gin. Zucchini julienne, perfumed with garlic, was a centerpiece topping the fillet, and crisp shoestring potatoes were sprinkled over the mild fish. The same potatoes were angled over an enormous fillet of flaky Atlantic salmon. Propped over lightly sauteed Savoy cabbage and a notable red-onion confit, the fish was enhanced by a beurre rouge sweetened with port wine.

Dessert was the only course I found uninteresting. The short list of four sweets includes the typical creme brulee and the tired, old tiramisu. An apple tart was, admittedly, wonderful. Crisp pastry and firm apple slices were moistened by a vanilla creme anglaise, spiked with raisins, and accompanied by a scoop of cinnamon ice cream. But after the flashy inventiveness of the menu, the tart seemed just a little dull, an unworthy example of Dippon and Mueller's efforts.

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Bistro Double U

3355 NE 26th Ave.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33306

Category: Restaurant > Bistro

Region: Wilton Manors

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And while humdrum might seem a good definition of staid Galt Ocean Mile, Bistro Double U is anything but mundane, even without those savory soccer players. Mueller said he does "not want to go all the way to fine dining," meaning that he doesn't want to run a restaurant that caters solely to the well-to-do. I applaud his philosophy. But as for the fine-dining part, there's no denying that he and his partner are already there.

Bistro Double U. 3355 NE 33rd St., Fort Lauderdale, 954-561-8789. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 6 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.

Arugula salad
$4.50

Beggar's purse
$6.50

Braised lamb shank
$17.50

Pan-seared snapper
$22.50

Apple tart
$4.00

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