Primary Colors

We definitely did not love the spinach salad, mostly because its warm sherry dressing had no depth and couldn't stick to the leaves. Otherwise the green leaves were tender and sweet. Strips of pancetta (Italian bacon), grilled portobello mushrooms, roasted peppers, crumbled Gorgonzola, and chopped walnuts added textural contrasts. We requested some balsamic vinegar to counter the oily dressing.

Technically, black and white aren't colors, so they don't correspond to specific chakras. But at the colorful Pazzo, the colorless food items were the best prepared. Blackened mahi-mahi, for example, was not as spicy as we'd requested, but it was flaky and moist. Looking something like a tortilla, the fillet was wrapped with spinach and mayonnaise in a roasted garlic lavash, and a pleasant salad comprised of couscous and barley was served on the side.

Pizza was undeniably the primo choice. Betances is great with pizza dough, and these beauties, blanketed with virgin-white mozzarella (or in some cases, blue-veined Gorgonzola), are every New Yorker's thin-crust dream. Pazzo offers about ten different pies in two sizes (personal and medium), including a special pizza of the evening. The Fantasia, topped with chicken and oven-dried tomatoes, was delicate and delicious. The pizza dough also served as a flatbread, triangles of which were provided at the beginning of the meal with a pungent tapenade (black olive dip).

The chi provided by the pizza fell off again with dessert. A wedge of grasshopper pie -- mint-chocolate chip ice cream on a chocolate-cookie crust -- was filled with icy shards.

In general, however, we felt positive about Pazzo. The service staff was friendly and professional, and the decor -- as chaotic as it might be for feng shui enthusiasts -- was stimulating. If only the same could be said for most of the dishes. As much as Corbo likes to mix and match when it comes to dressing herself, all of the elements of a restaurant, from decor to dessert, need to match -- if not in style, at least in intensity.

Pazzo. 2032 Harrison St., Hollywood, 954-923-0107. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.

Spinach salad
$7.00

Blackened mahi-mahi sandwich
$9.00

Penne Davide
$13.00

Swordfish
$17.00

Grasshopper pie
$3.95

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