Here Today, Gone to Maui

One dish, blending elements from nearly every Eastern country, was as multicultural as Brooke Lee herself. Tender, steamy opakapaka, a pink snapper imported from Hawaii, was cooked whole in a wok, set on a bed of al dente soba noodles, and doused with a just-creamy coconut-lemon grass sauce. We preferred the coconut composite to an alternate garlic black-bean sauce, which tasted more Cuban than Asian.

As for the Miss Universe pageant, Brooke Lee not only won the coveted crown, she was a credit to it (meaning she didn't plump up like pig at a luau or pose nude for a Penthouse tribute to tropical beauties). But it wasn't the hula that clinched it for her. During the interview portion of the pageant, Lee was asked what she'd do if she could perform any action without suffering consequences.

She didn't hesitate.
"I'd eat everything in the world," she replied. "I'd eat everything twice."
It's safe to say that, with the exception of the spicy sorbet, I feel the same way about the dishes at Maui Grille.

Closed Location

Maui Grille. 5022 N. Federal Hwy., Lighthouse Point, 954-571-7788. Lunch Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 5:30 to 10 p.m.

Vietnamese peanut wontons

Kahana black ribs

Honey-sake roast duck

Whole opakapaka

Pineapple No Ka Oi

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