Sindaco doesn't ignore carnivores. Filet mignon is a staple main course, and chicken breast appears nightly, often prepared the same way as the beef. But diners should listen to the waiter recite the specials before deciding on one of those two. From that list we ordered a perfectly grilled veal chop served with garlicky potatoes, sauteed spinach, and juicy marinated tomatoes.

Sindaco's cooking and his prices leave just enough room for his homemade desserts. Chocoholics especially will delight in a flourless fudgelike concoction garnished with all sorts of chocolate syrups, chips, and flakes.

The praise Sindaco has been receiving from patrons and critics should be enough to convince the former hired gun finally to settle down. If all goes well, Sunfish Grill will be in operation for a long time to come. And, if that's the case, the chef didn't make a complete liar out of me after all. Now when I say I'll never review one of Sindaco's restaurants again, I'll be telling the truth.

Sunfish Grill. 2771 E. Atlantic Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-788-2434. Dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 6 to 9:30 p.m; Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m.

Soup of the night
$4.50

Barbecued mahi-mahi torta
$6.75

Braised white-water clams
$7.50

Pan-seared snapper
$18.50

Filet mignon
$23.95

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