God Save the Pub

I'd suggest that Kate stick to English fare, but her samosa starter was quite good. These four curried vegetable triangles, deep-fried, were pleasant and mild. A spicy raita, or yogurt-cucumber sauce, was less kind to the palate but wonderfully complex.

Desserts resembled the mashed potatoes in that they were (a) huge and (b) snowcapped (with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream). Neither the homemade sticky toffee pudding nor the apple pie is a mucker to the dieter, but both were irresistible. We especially enjoyed the pudding, a moist square flecked with bits of toffee candy.

Bon Appetit magazine is so thrilled with the evolution of British cuisine that its editors devoted an entire issue to it last spring. And I applaud the culinary advancement of any culture. But in our desire to leap forward, it's easy to lose sight of tradition. Muckers, where the host kisses you, the cook coddles you, and the server kids around with you, is a reminder that not everything wholesome and honest has to be left behind.

Closed Location

Muckers. 4506 Inverrary Blvd., Lauderhill, 954-749-4446. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 6 to 10:30 p.m.

Scotch egg $4.50
Yorkshire pudding (large appetizer) $4.50
Cottage pie $7.95
Large Cornish pasty $8.50
Sticky toffee pudding $3.95

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