Worth Its Wait in Gold

Kee Grill offers plenty for landlubbers, including Black Angus filets, rib eyes, and strip steaks. The sirloin was excellent, grilled with just a touch of salt. My father-in-law, a self-proclaimed strip-steak expert, declared it as good as those found at Peter Luger's, his favorite steak house in Brooklyn. I felt just as strongly about three double-cut lamb chops, which were prepared medium-rare, as requested. The musky, tender meat was substantial and winning.

All main courses are served with two side dishes of your choice, which include scampi pasta, garlic-smashed potatoes, and mushroom saute. But the best of the lot were perfumed basmati rice, mashed sweet potatoes, and an excellent individual souffle called spinach Maria. Mixed with grated cheese, the spinach had been topped with Japanese bread crumbs (a coarser grate than Italian bread crumbs) and browned in the oven. I was tempted to order a second spinach Maria for dessert but didn't want to miss out on the house-made strawberry shortcake. Two large slices of pound cake were doused with a lava flow of sliced strawberries. Vanilla ice cream and whipped cream peaked the mountain like clouds ringing Everest.

Boca's a town where, when word goes out, a new restaurant quickly fills up. In some cases the reaction isn't justified: Two summers ago I waited on line for Brewzzi, which was decent but not spectacular; and the year before, Cheesecake Factory, a chain, drew rapturous praise from some. This past fall I thought for sure that Nick and Max, Dennis Max's revamped eatery (formerly Maxaluna) featuring award-winning chef Nick Morfogen, would be all the rage. But gossip about Kee Grill has, so far, eclipsed Morfogen's new "sun cuisine" -- though I suspect not for long. If Morfogen performs anywhere near as well as he did at Maxaluna, fickle Boca folk will be discussing reservation tactics for Nick and Max across the tennis net. That's good news for me, because then I'll finally be able to enjoy Kee Grill at a civilized dinner hour.

Location Info


Ke'e Grill

17940 N. Military Trail
Boca Raton, FL 33496

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Boca Raton

Kee Grill. 17940 N. Military Trl., Boca Raton, 561-995-5044. Dinner nightly from 5 till 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday till 10:30 p.m.

Caesar salad
Cajun spring rolls
Mediterranean shrimp scampi
Crab-and-shiitake-crusted grouper

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