Reading Between the Lines

As far as the ad's text goes, there's one phrase (all of it rendered in capital letters) that misleads, bearing out Dr. Ulanoff's theory. Dionysos does indeed have a "large menu offering complete dinners," but the tag line, "fine Greek cuisine," is slightly incorrect. The entrees are actually home-style, and they're the biggest draw at the restaurant. Belly-filling, heartwarming casseroles such as moussaka -- layers of eggplant, potatoes, and beef -- and pastitsio -- consisting of macaroni and beef -- were topped by an excellent, lumpless bechamel sauce. Chicken souvlaki, which is more of a street food than fine-dining fare, was also superb, the seasoned and grilled chicken breast exuding juice on toasted pita bread and partnered by a crisp Greek salad.

Roast leg of lamb was as soft as flannel, covered by an aromatic brown gravy and accompanied by roasted potatoes and green beans sauteed with tomatoes. And villagers' shrimp, a pasta dish, showcased ten jumbo shrimp sauteed with peppers and onions and sprinkled with feta cheese.

We had just a few complaints. Some of the shrimp were undercooked, and a rank entree of charbroiled red snapper was definitely not fresh. And for dessert galakto bouriko, a pastry filled with custard and covered with honey, was actually rubbery, like petrified flan.

The bar didn't disappoint, however. It supplied our party with shots of ouzo, which in turn inspired us to try some Greek dance steps. After all, for many people, Dionysus, or Bacchus, connotes hedonism. And though not every dish is as successful as the ad that first drew me to the place, after dining, drinking, and dancing the night away at this promising new restaurant, I was convinced that even the most backward communications major would get the picture.

Dionysos. 3485 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale, 954-566-4377. Dinner nightly from 5 p.m. till 2 a.m.

Appetizer variety for four
$16.95

Moussaka
$11.95

Pastitsio
$11.95

Roast leg of lamb
$15.95

Galakto bouriko
$4.50