For a restaurant to work, everything has to jell: location, décor, fare, service. And for six months or so, Bex worked. It was situated on the Intracoastal, and executive chef Robbin Haas -- who's received accolades from Food & Wine, Esquire, Food Arts, and Bon Appétit -- served unique New World cuisine. His luscious Alaskan king crabcakes with roasted corn sauce, beautifully seared tuna over somen noodle salad, and chicken-and-wild-mushroom "hash" were warmly received, as was the restaurant's supper-club atmosphere and proprietor Peter Beck's management. Then, after a few months, Haas departed, and a second chef couldn't maintain the New World order. Now Haas cooks at Red Square on South Beach, and Bex has become the Fisherman. While the former restaurant may have had a short life, it will long be remembered.