Fuggedaboutit

A main course of ravioli al forno -- one of half-a-dozen pasta choices, which include Sicilian-style lasagna and Caribbean shrimp linguini with andouille sausage and jerk spices -- was both undercooked and overcooked, depending on where the fork landed. The mushroom-stuffed ravioli, topped with garlic butter and grated cheese, were virtually inedible -- mushy here, petrified there. And the mushrooms were way too earthy for our tastes; they may be grown in fertilizer, but they're not supposed to taste like it. In addition the Little Italy pasta salad was supposed to be gnocchi tossed with grilled chicken, tomatoes, green onions, and balsamic vinaigrette. But they weren't potato dumplings; the pasta was shell-shaped, garnished with asparagus, and relatively flavorless.

Finally, the restaurant falls prey to the misguided notion that it can please all folks all the time, which must be why it offers New England clam chowder next to a briny chicken-noodle soup and jambalaya next to the New York strip sirloin on the menu. But in doing so It's New York strays from its theme: to offer foods both common to and representative of the Big Apple. Consequently it fails to convince me that New York is, as New Yorkers call it, the destination of choice. Perhaps Post and company should take into account why many of us who are originally from that metropolitan area choose to live down here: to get away from it all.

It's New York. 1850 SE 17th Street Cswy., Fort Lauderdale, 954-463-7878. Lunch and dinner daily from 11:30 a.m. till 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.

Chicken noodle soup $3.95 (bowl)
Chinatown combination $10.95
Little Italy pizza $9.95
It's NY Deli Melt $10.95
Ravioli al forno $11.95

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