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Because appetizers and entrees are clearly made to order and made exceedingly well, the intermezzo course of salads was disappointing. The house doesn't make its own dressing, and though the tossed lettuces, cherry tomatoes, red onions, and black olives were refreshing, the assortment of store-bought toppings brought it down a notch or two. By way of contrast, desserts, some of which are also not made on the premises, were more wisely chosen. In fact we couldn't decide between the superb "midnight seduction," a chocolate mousse cake with chocolate ganache, and the fluffier white-chocolate mousse cake, so we compromised and asked for both.

The menu at McDivot's changes seasonally, and a slew of nightly or holiday-oriented specials adds interest for repeat diners. One thing you can count on are the prices; main courses don't exceed $20, and most hover around the $15 mark -- a meal the younger generation can afford.

McDivot's, 3011 Rock Island Rd., Margate, 954-753-3500. Lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. till 4:30 p.m; Sunday brunch 11 a.m. till 3 p.m. Dinner nightly from 4:30 till 10 p.m; Friday and Saturday till 11 p.m.

Carolina blossom onion
$4.95

Stuffed mushrooms
$7.95

Chicken macadamia
$13.95

Maine lobster ravioli
$15.95

Midnight seduction
$4.25

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