High-Volume Eating

If spicy ain't your game but a band called Fantasy is, take your time with the babyback ribs. This full rack, slow-cooked for hours before being crisped over mesquite wood, takes so long to eat that you can fully enjoy the spectacle of aging rock wannabes, complete with outfit changes and sluttily unbuttoned shirts, as they entertain the younger Boca masses (that confused half-generation caught between Yuppie and X), though they reminded us just a little of Spinal Tap, whose amplifiers cranked up not to ten but "to eleven."

But the real charm a place like Duval St. Grill holds for a crowd, regardless of its rather generic and modular interpretation of the humble Sloppy Joe's, is its insistence on good times: Patrons must have fun (as long as those jollies don't include throwing a few punches). We enhanced our evening by ordering a just-tart-enough key lime pie, smooth and creamy, along with a sundae that had every possible dessert sauce topping on it. Forget about music -- I say sweets soothe the wild beast. Toole and Dixon are intent on supplying the Sloppy Joe's/ Duval St. Grill concept to Pembroke Pines; they're currently readying a 22,000-foot space for an August opening. The challenge for them will be keeping the theme somewhere between the hard-core of Hemingway and the fluff of a Fantasy.

Sloppy Joe's/Duval St. Grill. 21212 St. Andrews Blvd., Boca Raton, 561-393-0707. Dinner Monday through Thursday from 4 p.m. till midnight; Friday till 2 a.m. Lunch and dinner Saturday from noon till 2 a.m. Dinner Sunday from 4 till 10 p.m.

Conch chowder
$3.99

Barbecued chicken potato skins
$6.99

Sloppy Joe
$5.99

Babyback ribs
$14.99

Key lime pie
$2.99

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