By David Minsky
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By Candace West
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Two other main courses were somewhat disappointing. A pounded pork fillet had been rolled and stuffed with goat cheese and julienne vegetables. We found the broccoli inside it a poor foil for the tangy cheese, however, and the meat had been grilled too long, taking on an unpleasantly charred flavor. The other letdown was ostrich, which our server, with a poker face, described as "Big Bird." This meat, scarce as the dodo bird in South Florida restaurants, seemed more like steak -- seared medallions of ruby red. But Big Bird was a tough sell that night, quite literally. Maybe he should have been pounded, too.
All main courses were accompanied by a scoop of gluey but flavorful mashed potatoes and preceded by a lovely house salad that beat out the caesar salad appetizer, which was fishy with anchovy paste. But no matter how refreshing the house greens are, I'd recommend going easy on the roughage in order to save room for dessert. Workaholic Kobaitri bakes all the sweets himself, including a sumptuous chocolate layer cake filled with hazelnut mousse, and a milk-chocolate creme brulee as smooth as a con man.
Like Kobaitri himself, the wine list hails from around the world, with top bottles going for less than 50 bucks. (You can get a good DeLoach zinfandel for about $34.) As with the entrees, though, the list tends to change every so often and isn't terribly long, so it helps to be flexible. And if you desire something you don't see, just ask. Kobaitri knows that in his own place, which he opened because "he hated working for other people," doing what he wants often means doing what you want -- an attitude that makes this internationally cultured chef even more of a boon to Cooper City.
La Brochette Bistro. 2635 N. Hiatus Rd., Cooper City, 954-435-9090. Lunch Wednesday and Thursday from 11:30 a.m. till 2 p.m. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5 till 10 p.m.