Good Eating, Vietnam!

I also don't mind eating spicy fare in the summer. In fact I'm of the opinion shared by folks in Vietnam, India, and other Far Eastern countries: The steamier the day, the hotter the curry should be. Think of it as acclimating your insides to the weather outside; match external temperatures with internal ones, and you'll become impervious to your discomfort. Indochine presented us with a double fillet of snapper in a zesty yellow curry sauce laced with scallions, which did the job nicely. The soups, for which the Vietnamese are justly known, also performed beautifully in the role of equalizer. Asparagus crab soup, which featured white asparagus and hefty hunks of crabmeat, was steaming but mild. For a zestier broth, check out the hot-'n'-tangy soup, a chile-rife base densely packed with shrimp (slightly overdone in our case) and vegetables.

Like the more elaborate French fare, some desserts, such as beignets, aren't currently offered at Indochine. No disappointment here, however; the restaurant churns its own tropically flavored ice cream. Coconut, my party agreed, was one of the best flavors, along with a creamy, mellow mango.

Melissa Jones

Chef-owner Hong Sejot (above) knows what her patrons like

Location Info

Map

Indochine

8916 W. SR-84
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33324

Category: Restaurant > Vietnamese

Region: Davie/West Hollywood

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Details

Lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday till 10 p.m.; dinner Saturday 4 to 10 p.m., Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.

8916 State Rd. 84, Davie, 954-452-8502.

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Given her years of experience, Sejot may be correct in waiting for business to pick up again before she reimplements a French menu. I have no problem with that; the Vietnamese food, which dominates the menu anyway, is a draw no matter what the season. But the wine list looks like a permanent loss. I hope she reconsiders. Even a wino recognizes that Sejot's accomplished touch deserves more than a bargain-basement glass of Gallo to accompany it.