Fear of Frying

Vienna Cafe & Wine Bar

What was definitely superfluous was the service that accompanied the grilled veal chop main course, which came garnished with a roasted onion-mushroom compote. Two members of my party ordered the chop; one wanted it medium-rare, the other medium-well. But the waiter forgot which plate was which, so he asked one of my guests, the one who wanted the chop more rare, to cut into it. When the waiter saw that the meat inside was more white than pink, he grabbed the plate and gave it to the other diner. Good thing we were all family that evening; bad thing that the second chop was so well-done it tasted burnt.

Like the duck focaccia sandwich, the veal chops had obviously suffered from an internal flaw: a kitchen so disorganized that it took more than an hour to compile our main courses. It was as if the cooks had all gone on break or decided they were too tired to keep up the pace. The only entrée that didn't languish from the wait was the chicken cordon bleu, a lovely version of the classic dish. Stuffed with ham and Gruyère, the boneless chicken breast had been rolled in bread crumbs and baked to a just-about-to-ooze finish.

Still life with chicken cordon bleu: The dish is worth the wait
Melissa Jones
Still life with chicken cordon bleu: The dish is worth the wait

Location Info

Map

Vienna Cafe & Wine Bar

9100 State Road 84
Davie, FL 33324

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Davie/West Hollywood

Details

Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. till 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till 11:30 p.m. Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. till 2:30 p.m.
9100 State Rd. 84, Davie, 954-423-1961.

Sweets, such as sacher torte, chocolate mousse pie, and Oreo cheesecake, change daily. The kitchen makes some and purchases others, presenting them all on a dessert tray. Our waiter never made it to that point, perhaps realizing that the marathon meal -- three hours for two courses -- had disinclined us to sit around for any more. Many of Jacobsen's tasty dishes could entice me back for another visit, though. I might go during less-prime hours, when all 80 seats would not be taken, making it easier to get to the restrooms, as well as out the door in case of a fire. And I'd certainly prefer a rainy night.

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