Irish Setting

All main courses are preceded by a choice of soup or salad. Though the salad features fresh greens and a couple of slices of red onion and quartered tomatoes, all the dressings except the vinaigrette tasted bottled. Soups, on the other hand, were inarguably delicious. Potato-leek soup, a slightly greenish creamy purée, was subtly flavored; seafood soup was slightly less modest, with plenty of bay shrimp and cod floating in the cream-thickened broth. In addition main entrées, with the exception of pasta dishes, arrive partnered by your choice of colcannon, fries, or rich potatoes au gratin. Biddy Early's just might qualify as an Irish pub without serving a Guinness-based beef stew, but potatoes are a sine qua non.

No matter what course you're having, it'd almost be sacrilege not to wash everything down with a Murphy's Stout or a Guinness. Biddy Early's also pours some lighter brews, like Bodinger's, the same way it does Guinness; that is to say, it has put them on "beer mix." Beer mix is a dispensing method that allows less air into the brew as it pours down the side of a glass. As a result the beer is slightly flatter, with a creamier head, than the highly carbonated soft drink we call Bud, and beer connoisseurs are forever grateful to pubs that have any brew at all on beer mix.

Sherri Cohen

The décor? A wee bit of the old country. The menu? All over the map.

Location Info

Map

Biddy Early's Irish Pub

3419 N. Andrews Ave.
Oakland Park, FL 33309

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Fort Lauderdale

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Details

Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. till 2 a.m.; till 3 a.m. Saturday.

3419 N. Andrews Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-567-1990.

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More About

• Kieran Gleeson
• Robert Godfrey
• Stonehenge
• Irish Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

If you indulge too much, of course, chances are you won't have room for dessert, but unless you love Irish bread pudding (I don't), that isn't a great loss. Chocolate fans will probably appreciate the Death by Chocolate pastry, a moist and dense confection. As for me, I'll just take my pint, along with an order of traditional fish and chips, the best item that's not on Biddy Early's menu.