The Reel Deal

Sherri Cohen

The LaBiners' joint will put a smile on your face

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Del Vecchio's Italian Fishery

246 S. Powerline
Deerfield Beach, FL 33442

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Deerfield Beach

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Details

Open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10:45 p.m., Sunday till 9 p.m.

10317 Royal Palm Blvd., Coral Springs, 954-346-5484

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More About

• Steven LaBiner
• Culinary Institute of America
• Coral Springs
• Eating Out
• Seafood

The concentration it took us to put together our order was well rewarded when dinner arrived. The most dramatic presentation came with the "jumpin'"-style fish, which sizzled through the dining room, smoke billowing from the hot metal serving tray as the waitress smoothly slid what in this case was grouper from platter to plate. The chunks of white fleshy fish were topped with red, yellow, and green peppers and a sweet and piquant Thai sauce that contained absolute knockout flavors. Six "jumbo" shrimp, which we ordered Livornaise, were large, luscious, and well complemented with fresh tomatoes, capers, onions, garlic, black and green olives, oregano, and dry vermouth, which LaBiner utilizes in place of white wine in many of his recipes. I wouldn't call the crustaceans "jumbo," though, because then I'd have to describe the single , much larger shrimp that comes hooked on the side of Hobo's Bloody Mary as "extra-jumbo" or "colossal," which makes them all sound like ripe olives. "Big" would do -- that's how the menu accurately describes the ocean scallops, which we sampled "scampi-style." Lightly topped with breading and baked in vermouth, lemon juice, and garlic, these too were succulent and satisfying.

Dinners this bountiful don't leave much room for dessert. For you die-hards, though, there are creamy renditions of crème brûlée, key lime pie, and New York cheesecake. Hobo's Fish Joint offers quantity and quality, as well as an all-around pleasant dining experience. You can be certain no hobo ever had it so good.