OK, so the place isn't strictly Cuban. In fact pan-Latin might be a more appropriate modifier, since dishes like honey-glazed salmon with mango coulis and a half duck marinated in citrus juices and then glazed with raspberry-sesame sauce and honey are on the menu. But it's with his Cuban fare that owner George Quesada really proves himself: flavorful black beans and rice, terrific papa rellena. Two of his best appetizers, a tamal with pork and caramelized onions and crunchy-tender ham croquetas, are equally hard to resist. With all the Elián-inspired antics of late, Cuba's getting a bad rap. But trust Quesada to make sure that the island's cuisine never does.