A Trip to the Islands

When it comes to the specials, Calypso aims a bit higher, with mixed success. Pork Havana nueva, pork tenderloin marinated in bitter orange and lime juices, was a juicy pleasure. The pork was served on a bed of caramelized onions and sautéed red bell peppers and was surrounded by a mountain range of home-brewed black beans, white rice, and deep-fried plantains. Yuca-crusted dolphin, a frequent guest on the dinner specials list, wasn't quite as accomplished, since the fish itself was not only overcooked but overwhelmed by the amount of horseradish in the crust.

If you do become disenchanted with a main course -- and you won't if you stick to the Caribbean plates on the regular menu -- chalk it up to experience and wash it all down with a Pirate's Brew lager, just one of the microbrews from the well-chosen beer list that puts the "Pub" in Calypso Pub. Or put it aside and reach for dessert. Avid sweets fans groan over the flourless chocolate cake, baked on the premises, which had a lightness of texture usually found only in flour cakes. Homemade key lime pie was also wonderfully rendered, with just the right amount of tartness, but in the end the raspberry-chocolate cream tart, garnished with huge, ripe berries, took the blue ribbon. Note that the coconut cream pie is the only dessert not baked in the Calypso kitchen; sample at your own risk.

Larry Singer

The only thing better than Calypso's oysters Rockefeller is washing them down with an island brew

Location Info

Map

Calypso Restaurant & Raw Bar

460 S. Cypress Road
Pompano Beach, FL 33060

Category: Restaurant > Caribbean

Region: Pompano Beach

Menu Photos

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Details

Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. till 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10:30 p.m.; Sunday from noon till 9:30 p.m.

460 S. Cypress Rd., Pompano Beach, 954-942-1633

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More About

• Palm Beach
• Oliver Saucy
• Mark Militello
• Eating Out
• Food and Cooking

Indeed, try for a table at your own risk. You'll probably have to wait for a seat, for starters; on top of that, you won't be invited to take your place until your party is complete, unless you're willing to order appetizers right away. The staff does try to ensure timely turnover and accommodate waiting customers, but it doesn't always work. They couldn't do anything, for example, about a party that decided to play cards at its table instead of paying up and departing. But that's par for the course -- patrons are so anxious to hang out at Calypso that when they finally do score a seat, they don't want to give it up.