Seafood With a Splash

Larry Singer

Pick a continent, City Oyster has the seafood to match it, as with its mu shu scallops

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City Oyster

213 E. Atlantic Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33444

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Delray Beach

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Lunch Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. till 2:30 p.m.; dinner nightly from 5 till 11 p.m., 561-272-0220

213 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach

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More About

• West Palm Beach
• Asia (Band)
• Upper East Side
• Eating Out
• Seafood

So one dining strategy might be to identify a region -- Asia or the Mediterranean -- and stay within it. Or you could keep things even simpler. City Oyster lives up to its name by offering an ever-changing variety of oysters on the half shell, like Malpeques, Blue Points, Northumberlands, or Salt Aires, culled from international waters. You don't have to order a half-dozen or a dozen to sample them, either; you can ask for one of each. They'll arrive at your table just-shucked, still quivering and brimming with juices. Add a little cocktail sauce, squeeze a quartered lemon, and you're good to go. Then indulge in the "lobster shack" dinner, a steamed one-and-a-quarter­pound Maine lobster that's so lush you don't need the drawn butter. The lobster came with some of the sweetest Red Bliss potatoes I've had this year, along with a side of refreshing, traditional coleslaw that could have used only a touch more mayo to be perfect.

Because seafood can be so supremely palate-satisfying, you may make the mistake of skipping dessert. But if you layer in some good wine from the thoughtfully chosen list, you should have the desire if not the actual physical appetite. (The Bouchaine pinot noir from Carneros vineyards for $35 doesn't overmatch fish or seafood and is a nice alternative to dry whites.) Then you won't have to overlook the strawberry napoleon, a crisp pastry layered with light cream and circumscribed with ripe berries. When you're stuffed to the gills, apply some more counsel from The New York Times: Know what you want; be polite or pushy as the occasion demands; tip generously; and establish yourself as a regular. These suggestions may or may not work in the competitive field of bar-hopping, but at City Oyster, you're going to need all the help you can get just to secure a table.