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Bringing Up the Rear

The River House

Comments (0) By Jen Karetnick Thursday, Sep 21 2000

...continued from page 1

As with some members of the Kennedy clan, the River House's looks and lineage mean little in terms of a quality product

Location Info

Map

River House Restaurant

301 SW 3rd Ave.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Fort Lauderdale

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Details

Open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 till 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 11 p.m. Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. till 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 till 10 p.m.

301 SW Third Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-525-7661

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The one item that worked without question -- a wedge of iceberg surrounded by dribbles of tangy Roquefort-buttermilk dressing and nuggets of applewood-smoked bacon -- didn't require any cooking. And our desserts of pecan-andchocolate-chip bread pudding with toffee sauce and a huge wedge of chocolate layer cake, given to us on the house to make up for the grouper fiasco, were moist and rich. So what does this say about the kitchen at the River House? Only that the pastry chef and the cooks on the cold side seem to be doing their jobs.

Poor River House. It has such potential. The setting is gorgeous, the staff is well-meaning, and the menu is modern. But if spoiled fish and stale bread are any indication, then the River House seems to be suffering from executive neglect. Not even the valet parkers show up with any great alacrity to take your ticket and retrieve your car. In the end what should have completed Petrillo and Boulukos' triumphant trifecta is hobbling in the background behind the proprietors' other two ventures, a fate that has the restaurant critics in town more than a little thrown.