A Mediter-Asian Affair

Eating at Prezzo Affair, you wouldn't know the Mediterranean Sea is far from Beijing

In keeping with the Mediterranean theme, the two-story, 240-seat restaurant is spacious and has plenty of nooks and crannies in which to dine. If you like being out in the open, order cosmopolitans and appetizers at the horseshoe bar in front; if you prefer to hide, a contemporary lounge in back offers comfort along with sophistication. I'd recommend adjourning to the lounge for a liqueured coffee as opposed to ordering dessert at the table; the banana cheesecake was pasty, the chocolate soufflé flabby. Neither was worth the calories. Although the wine list is pricey, drinks are the best bargains in the joint, if a bit oddly priced: a bloody mary goes for $5.18, while a Patron silver-label tequila costs $6.13.

Left to right: Chef Arthur Jones, assistant general manager Mimi Varaday, bartender Steve Wills, and server Danny Maleh offer multicultural victuals
Joshua Prezant
Left to right: Chef Arthur Jones, assistant general manager Mimi Varaday, bartender Steve Wills, and server Danny Maleh offer multicultural victuals

Otherwise diners pay some fairly steep prices for dinner. But portions are large and the quality of the fish and meat -- a supple filet mignon with a fabulous Barolo wine and short-rib sauce was especially telling -- may well justify the check. If Prezzo Affair can train its servers to match the upscale attitude of the food, then the eatery won't have to worry that, as Restaurant Report warns, a waiter's "eagerness and lack of sensitivity will cost [it] points" -- or ruin the diner's appetite for second helpings.

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