In the end, however, there's no question that the fine Mexican fare is the bona fide draw. "Will you be staying for the nightclub?" Marilyn Flanagan-Peraza asks when she answers the phone for reservations.
"Lord, no!" will be my answer every time. You couldn't pay me enough to revisit the Hustle. But for honest-to-goodness huitlacoche, I'll return time and again.