This Is Not a Restaurant Review

The look and taste of Dada flirt with absurdity but still somehow work

Influences run the global gamut here, so go with whatever you feel like having, and you most likely won't be disappointed. We especially admired a cold cucumber-chive soup, which tasted like tzatziki, and an entrée of butternut squash ravioli, tender pillows filled with a sublimely spiced vegetable purée. The ravioli were sauced with thyme cream that contained nuggets of shiitake mushrooms, which introduced a pleasant earthy note, though the addition of snow peas was rather strange from a culinary point of view.

If your palate tends to veer away from rich dishes, be sure to order a bento box. The traditional multicompartment lacquered box held an array of Asian fare: jasmine rice, beef marinated with soy-orange flavors, and some zesty sea scallops with a red pepper flair. Desserts, however, are uniformly rich, ranging from a decent crème brûlée to a black-and-white mousse cake. Your best bet is probably the cobbler of the day, which has a home-baked, candied texture that goes perfectly with a pot of French-press coffee.

Bruce Feingold: chef, weirdo
Joshua Prezant
Bruce Feingold: chef, weirdo

In keeping with the art-culture theme, Dada offers martinis made with van Gogh vodka and a reasonably priced, worldly wine list. But the real attraction of Dada is the dada itself, which is as counterculture and foreign (not to mention welcome) to Delray Beach as Navajo fry bread is to the bento box.

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