If you ask the staff at 12-year-old Chinese restaurant Toa Toa (4145 NW 88th Ave., Sunrise, 954-746-8833) what the name means, they look at you oddly, as if it were obvious. Finally they say something like, "You know, Toa Toa, good food, like dim sum." Ah, that clears everything up. Toa Toa does serve good Cantonese, Hunan, and Szechuan food, and dishes such as rich Lake Tung Ting shrimp, tangy Formosa chicken, and zingy beef-and-pepper ho fun are beautifully rendered. But best of all the eatery also serves really good Hong Kong-style dim sum all day long. So you can order items such as steamed pork buns; deep-fried, taro-wrapped shrimp; and minced scallop cutlets anytime and be assured that not only will they be freshly prepared, but everything from mussels in black bean sauce to turnip pudding will be, well, toa toa.