By David Minsky
By Nicole Danna
By Sara Ventiera
By Candace West
By Emily Dabau
By Doug Fairall
By Candace West
By Laine Doss
For the gastronomically minded, however, vacationing in a seasonal place also has its disadvantages: Half the restaurants close for the summer, shorten their hours, or go out of business. The ones that do stay open are usually as tried-and-true as old jammies -- comfortable but frayed at the edges or missing a button or two. (See "Foodstuff" for a hint on finding more restaurants on Sanibel and Captiva islands.)
Indeed such was the case at the Village Cafe (14970 Captiva Dr., Captiva Island, 941-472-1956), an upmarket eatery that has served the population for several years. The décor is stunning; the bi-level restaurant features an enormous open kitchen that feels like part of the dining room. Smooth white walls are sculpted and waved, with human faces molded into the walls in inconspicuous places in such a way that you'll notice them only if you look for them. Picture a cross between Gaudi and Dalí and you have the general picture.
Unfortunately the fare shows a distinct lack of artistry. While main courses such as the sea scallops with curry, caviar, and champagne sauce were well conceived, they were not as successfully executed. The curry-dusted scallops carried so many spice flavors that the buttery tang of the shellfish virtually disappeared beneath them. Free-range roaster over crawfish hash was pleasantly juicy but much too salty. And a trio of so-called "homemade" pâtés was actually underflavored, with the exception of a smooth truffled mousse -- which the server then informed us was the only pâté the chef buys rather than makes.
Flip that experience over and you have the Mad Hatter (6467 San-Cap Rd., Sanibel, 941-472-0033), another long-standing, New American restaurant that tops the list of concierge recommendations. But this time, while the long, narrow dining room is memorable only because it's starting to verge on shabby, the wonderfully conceptualized eats were outstanding. Take, for instance, the chef's "soup of the moment." What could have been a simple crab chowder was revitalized with sweet potatoes and roasted corn. Instead of being served with a common marinara, the exceptionally tender fried calamari were tossed with baby greens, pickled cucumbers, grape tomatoes, and a subtle sweet-and-sour vinaigrette. An appetizer of goat cheese "pillows" was highlighted with port wine- strawberry sauce, a fruity combo that worked beautifully to offset the pungency of the cheese.
Almost more compelling than the recipes themselves, the quality of the ingredients attested to an evolved kitchen. The yellowfin tuna entrée was medium-rare sushi grade, even if we did think that the orange, chipotle, and peanut-flavored crust and accompaniments of shrimp sausage, sweet potato hash, and cilantro-lime butter constituted overkill. A savory filet mignon was one of the best I've sampled, neither gamy nor bland, and underscored by a gentle but intense caramelized red-onion demi-glace.
For diners such as me who enjoy the uncharted waters of new restaurants, off-season is also the time for raw cafés and bistros quietly to debut. And I'm not kidding when I use the word quiet: When we walked into the month-old, purple-and-green-hued Keylime Bistro in the Captiva Island Inn (11509 Andy Rosse Lane, Captiva Island, 941-395-4000) for a late lunch, the waiter, who was also the bartender, seemed unusually glad to see us. He pulled up a stool to take our order. "You folks are going to get an awful lot of my attention," he confided. "You're only the third table I've had all day."
Not only did we get his undivided and at times overly solicitous attention, we also received a meal that, like the Captiva coastline, was rich with treasures. We'd actually settled into the bistro with few expectations because, despite the white tablecloths and elaborately painted pastel ceiling, the menu reads simply, with lots of puns in the descriptions: for instance the "shrimp-to-shore bloody Mary" (a damn good drink with two huge jumbo shrimp) or the "cakes -- You can have them for dessert if you want, but we use real blue crab in ours" (along with what we suspect were Ritz cracker crumbs).
The oysters in a stunning po'boy were helped by a crisp tempura batter, and the bread into which they were dropped had been spread with garlic butter for an extra wallop. "Killer, macho nachos" were heaped with tomatoes, onions, olives, jalapeños, steak, and cheese and served on a pizza stand for a startling presentation. My entire party loved one of the waiter's recommendations, bruschetta topped with garlic-infused oil, chopped red onions, roasted red peppers, capers, and a smear of creamy goat cheese. I was particularly wowed by a tricolor garden terrine with stripes of ground carrots, cauliflower, and spinach. Though one of my guests described it as "grown-up baby food," he also had to admit that the preparation was accomplished, a subtle mastery of the form. A puddle of tomato-basil coulis added some depth to the terrine, which, given the climate of Captiva, is an excellent choice for a lady who lunches -- in her bikini.