Serious Syrian

Joshua Prezant

Brothers Famer (left) and Ahmad Barazi welcome diners to the "Home of the Kabob"

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Ferdos Grill

4300 N. Federal Highway
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33308

Category: Restaurant > Middle Eastern

Region: Beaches

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Lunch Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. till 10 p.m., Friday till 11 p.m. Dinner Saturday from 4 till 11 p.m. 954-492-5552.

4300 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale

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More About

• Linda Gassenheimer
• Ahmad Barazi
• Eating Out
• Ethnic and Regional Cuisines

After finishing the seafood, try a Mediterranean classic: the excellent gyro, slices of pressed lamb and beef scattered over pita bread and topped with onions and tomatoes. The tzatziki (cucumber-yogurt sauce) that dressed the gyro was thick and creamy, as was the garlic sauce that accompanies every plate of kebabs. Ferdos lives up to its nickname with a choice of five different kinds of kebabs, including shrimp and a vegetarian option. We opted for the Mediterranean Delight, a combo platter comprising chicken, tenderloin, and kaftah (ground beef flavored with parsley and onions) kebabs. Without exception all were highly flavored, convincingly marinated, and perfectly seared on the grill, though the tenderloin was a little tough in spots.

With all the main courses, the two side dishes -- fragrant rice (accented with carrots) and steamed and buttered vegetables (broccoli, mushrooms, peppers, carrots, and cauliflower) -- had a welcome freshness I rarely see in South Florida's most expensive restaurants. (Ferdos, thank goodness, is not one of them, by the way.) Our only complaint about the restaurant was the commercially packaged quality of the pita bread, along with a predictable -- if nicely prepared -- baklava for dessert. On the plus side, Ferdos's wine list throws a curve or two with atypical vintages, including labels from New Zealand. All in all, Ferdos Grill not only makes an accomplished addition to the Middle Eastern scene in Fort Lauderdale, it pretty much is the scene. Take it from me: As my husband will tell you, when I'm right, I'm right.