The Praising of Grill House

Overall quality and a willingness to fix what’s broken set the Grill House apart

There's no reason to fix many of the offerings, such as the mussels superbly poached in white wine, garlic, and basil. Other seafood was also outstanding, like the baked scallop main course, a casserole of delicately flavored sea scallops richly enhanced with a combination of butter and white wine. A similar sauce, this one spiked with key lime, moistened a fillet of flaky Chilean sea bass, which had been encrusted with a coarsely ground mixture of Brazil nuts and almonds. Then there were the masters of the household -- those items cooked on that dominating grill, like the potent churrasco, a tender skirt steak studded with bits of garlic and parsley from a chimichurri marinade. And the dish destined to be a signature: double lamb chops, lightly grilled to a vibrant succulence and softened with a port wine-rosemary reduction.

Grill of my dreams
Joshua Prezant
Grill of my dreams


Lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. till 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till midnight. Call 954-785-2005.
Closed Location

As are many new restaurants, the Grill House is a work-in-progress. Desserts like the sabayon and berries are mislabeled -- though the fresh fruit it came with was commendable, the topping tasted more like whipped cream. The casual logo engraved on the windows and the architecture of the building, formerly a Ranch House, belie the more serious, white-linen, steak house atmosphere inside. And valet parking is a pretension, not a necessity, given the scope of the adjoining parking lot. However, considering the forthcoming and honest attitude found inside, it's safe to say that this work should continue to progress quickly.

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