The Praising of Grill House

Overall quality and a willingness to fix what’s broken set the Grill House apart

A A A Comments (0) By Jen Karetnick Thursday, Sep 27 2001

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Joshua Prezant

Grill of my dreams

Details

Lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. till 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till midnight. Call 954-785-2005.

Closed Location

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There's no reason to fix many of the offerings, such as the mussels superbly poached in white wine, garlic, and basil. Other seafood was also outstanding, like the baked scallop main course, a casserole of delicately flavored sea scallops richly enhanced with a combination of butter and white wine. A similar sauce, this one spiked with key lime, moistened a fillet of flaky Chilean sea bass, which had been encrusted with a coarsely ground mixture of Brazil nuts and almonds. Then there were the masters of the household -- those items cooked on that dominating grill, like the potent churrasco, a tender skirt steak studded with bits of garlic and parsley from a chimichurri marinade. And the dish destined to be a signature: double lamb chops, lightly grilled to a vibrant succulence and softened with a port wine-rosemary reduction.

As are many new restaurants, the Grill House is a work-in-progress. Desserts like the sabayon and berries are mislabeled -- though the fresh fruit it came with was commendable, the topping tasted more like whipped cream. The casual logo engraved on the windows and the architecture of the building, formerly a Ranch House, belie the more serious, white-linen, steak house atmosphere inside. And valet parking is a pretension, not a necessity, given the scope of the adjoining parking lot. However, considering the forthcoming and honest attitude found inside, it's safe to say that this work should continue to progress quickly.