The Allure of the Leurre

Where sushi meets French cuisine — with delectable results

Nowhere, however, will you find strictly pan-Pacific recipes that heedlessly combine all manner of Asian foodstuffs. If anything this side of the menu sticks more closely to its European heritage, and you can easily find yourself with a wine-braised osso buco or a slightly dry roasted pork dish with Granny Smith apple compote and herbed mashed potatoes.

Eric Mawby demonstrates his raw power
Michael McElroy
Eric Mawby demonstrates his raw power

The familiar European tastes perhaps work best in the desserts; here, diners can smack their lips over a trio of crème brûlées perfumed into this century with spices and fruit -- ginger, raspberry, or mango -- and all perfectly done with a burnt-sugar crust. Unfortunately the wine list lags behind the rest of the menu in creaky domestic territory, but as Mawby notes, "The Leurre is a work in progress." I can only hope he gets around to more-interesting wine distributors sooner than he got to painting the parking lot, which still noted until very recently in some spaces: "Parking for Sagami customers only." I'm generally not your average put-your-hook-in-the-water-and-wait-for-a-fish-on-a-hot-summer-day kind of girl, but given the fare at the Leurre, I'm inclined to be patient.

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