Get Balkanized

At Bulgari, stick to the traditional Bulgarian fare, and give the Italian food the boot

What Bulgari lacks is consistency. One night, bread was served with an olive oil/sun-dried-tomato dip; another evening, it was brought with packets of butter. Our first server was knowledgeable about wine, bringing us the best Chardonnay Bulgaria could offer (read with a grain of salt), a Trakia Valley Traminer Reserve for $19; the next waiter blew it when he told us he would bring a "special reserve" cabernet to the table and it turned out to be the slightly medicinal house wine that goes for $4 a glass. (He charged us for five glasses.)

It's just like Medieval Times, only with no jousting and authentic food
Michael McElroy
It's just like Medieval Times, only with no jousting and authentic food

More important, perhaps, by promoting the Italian fare -- desserts are all imported spumoni combinations that lack character -- Bulgari is steering customers toward the wrong body of water. Sensible culinary travelers will avoid the Mediterranean options at this eatery and will instead make straight for the Black Sea.

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