Get Balkanized
At Bulgari, stick to the traditional Bulgarian fare, and give the Italian food the boot
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What Bulgari lacks is consistency. One night, bread was served with an olive oil/sun-dried-tomato dip; another evening, it was brought with packets of butter. Our first server was knowledgeable about wine, bringing us the best Chardonnay Bulgaria could offer (read with a grain of salt), a Trakia Valley Traminer Reserve for $19; the next waiter blew it when he told us he would bring a "special reserve" cabernet to the table and it turned out to be the slightly medicinal house wine that goes for $4 a glass. (He charged us for five glasses.)
More important, perhaps, by promoting the Italian fare -- desserts are all imported spumoni combinations that lack character -- Bulgari is steering customers toward the wrong body of water. Sensible culinary travelers will avoid the Mediterranean options at this eatery and will instead make straight for the Black Sea.
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