Sew Delicious

When in Rome, try the pizza -- or almost anything else

Oddly enough, or perhaps thankfully, pastas do not dominate the menu. You can score some Bolognese sauce over penne, chicken and mushrooms tossed with handmade fettuccine, and handmade gnocchi mixed with mussels and clams, a refreshingly different version of the potato dumplings. But a side of spaghetti interwoven with that expertly balanced marinara comes with main courses. Thus, diners are actually freed up to order, say, one of the two fish dishes. Salmone alla Siciliana, a sautéed fillet napped with a pungent dressing made of sun-dried tomatoes, fresh tomatoes, black olives, capers, garlic, white wine, and olive oil, perfectly suits the palate that loves bold flavors. But if you're looking for something slightly more delicate with just as much satisfying aroma, the grouper Amalfi wins the prize. The sautéed fish was enhanced by an orange-cream sauce that emphasized the citrus and left the dairy to smooth its wake. A lovely dish, the grouper can be ordered with a side of pasta but was even better with the other option, an assortment of grilled squash and zucchini.

Hadley Hooper

Location Info

Map

When in Rome

3311 N. Ocean Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33308

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Beaches

Details

Lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. till 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10:30 p.m. Call 954-563-1349.
3311 N. Ocean Blvd., Fort Lauderdale

I'll probably never be able to start with anything at When in Rome other than the house salad of baby mixed greens and sprightly balsamic vinaigrette and the spicy onion-rosemary focaccia that's a complement. There is a handful, however, of expected relatives: fried mozzarella, fried calamari, an aptly Parmesan-rich caesar salad. I also can't see myself eating dessert too often unless the management wants to come up with something other than -- wouldn't you know? -- tiramisu (about a six on the espresso- ladyfinger scale), chocolate mousse, or crème caramel. What I can envision is cutting into the lovingly molded, 16-inch pizza, time and again (next time with the capricciosa, with mushrooms, prosciutto and egg, for the record). And maybe, just maybe, going on management's incentive, sewing up a ripped seam or two.

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