Top Tapas

The Iberian fare at Spanish Tapas y Olé is simple and delicious

Don't expect much from an abbreviated wine list, but a half-dozen sherries and the house sangría are ideal for the sugar junkie. The desserts were also rather limited, yielding a multitemperature crema quemada a la Catalana(crème brûlée to those of a French persuasion) that merely confirmed a pet peeve of mine when it comes to Spanish restaurants in the United States: No sweets imagination. Without belaboring the point, I can name a handful of dishes from southern Spain alone -- figs stuffed with chocolate and almonds, peaches cured in syrup, sponge cake rolled around caramel custard -- that would be just as easy to make ahead of time and serve on the spot.

Still, Spanish Tapas y Olé works well within its space and location limitations, offering just about the only true Spanish cuisine in southern Broward County. You might not get as upscale a dish as sea bream baked in rock salt or rabbit with minted peas, but you will receive some sweetheart service and hearty, home-style cooking at welcome prices -- a credo that's practically painted, along with the mood-affecting color, right on the walls.

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