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Woe, Mexico

Las Palmas needs a refresher course in quality Mexican cuisine

Hadley Hooper

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Las Palmas

1318 N. Ocean Drive
Hollywood, FL 33019

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Hollywood

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Lunch and dinner daily from 11:30 a.m. till 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 2 a.m. Call 954-929-0550.
1318 N. Ocean Dr., Hollywood

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Along with wine and ingredient fusing, a stint in Aspen also would have taught the team at Las Palmas a little something about food prep: Only certain items, like taco shells, for instance, should be made ahead of time. Deep-fried ice cream, American invention that it is, doesn't qualify for that status. The whole idea is to serve it right out of the fryer, with the outside hot and crisp and the inside cool and melting. Cooking it ahead of time and re-freezing it only allows the crust to get chewy, especially when it tastes to begin with as if it's made of stale tortilla chips.

Indeed, even the Intracoastal view and sea breeze-infused exterior of this eatery could probably not tempt me back. Whereas the Food & WineMagazine Classic at Aspen is a can't-miss experience for this reviewer, it should also be for local restaurateurs, who would gain exposure to thousands of willing guinea pigs.

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