Letter from London

Our critic skips across the pond for a preview of shows likely to swing through South Florida soon

Anyone looking for the theatrical capital of the world will unquestionably end that search here in London, where a strong theatrical tradition has been nurtured, almost unbroken, for well over 400 years. The city is looking more prosperous and confident than it has in many decades, choked with new construction and jammed with immigrants. This spring and summer have been especially dynamic: The city reveled in the Queen's Jubilee, a gigantic, extended celebration of her 50 years on the throne. Then came England's plucky run for the World Cup, which segued into the Royal Regatta week at Henley, which segued into Wimbledon.

All of this had more than a little theatricality to it. But many here worry that the U.K. has turned into a gigantic theme park. Still more fret about the obvious drop in American tourism since 9/11. Many London productions are closing after fairly short runs; up in Stratford-upon-Avon, the streets seem eerily quiet. But though audience numbers may be down, there's plenty of action on the boards. Here's a brief overview of what's happening on this side of the pond -- which also serves as a preview of coming South Florida attractions, because many of these plays will undoubtedly be presented by South Florida theaters in years to come.

First stop is the Royal National Theatre, where Director Trevor Nunn has Tom Stoppard's new trilogy, The Coast of Utopia: Shipwreck, a big-cast epic about romantics and revolutionaries set in mid-19th-century Europe. The company also presents Vincent in Brixton, a fictional account of Vincent van Gogh's real-life stay in London as a young aspiring artist. The most chilling offering is the aptly named Frozen, a three-character play about the mother of a murdered young girl and the serial killer who committed the crime. Like many new plays, Frozen centers on a straight-from-the-headlines subject; unlike many others, it goes deep in exploring its painful subject. Another controversial play, The Lieutenant of Inishmore, is running in the West End. It's a dark (very dark) comedy about terrorism that received glowing reviews when produced by the Royal Shakespeare Company last year. The story is focused on the Irish Troubles, but its implications and its matter-of-fact mélange of offhand humor and cruelty might hit close to home for jittery post-9/11 audiences.

London has its fair share of safer fare, of course, from grand-scale musicals to Shakespeare and other classics. In the former category, the biggest hit is a smashing My Fair Lady, at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane. This revival, also directed by Nunn, is notable for its fluid staging -- some musical numbers move from one full set to another to yet another in an effortless glide. Since the theater is two blocks from Covent Garden, where much of the story takes place, the theatrical design neatly echoes the real world just outside the door. The production stays faithful to George Bernard Shaw's original play Pygmalion: For example, this Henry Higgins is not so likable. All in all, the show is a theatrical triumph and a popular one.

The classics are also rife on U.K. stages but with decidedly mixed results. Peter Hall's production of Oscar Wilde's Lady Windermere's Fan was dismissed as stiff and static by many critics, though Vanessa Redgrave received good notices in the title role. The Royal Shakespeare Company has been going through some turbulent times, abruptly ending its long-term tenancy at the Barbican, then announcing the end of Adrian Noble's contentious directorship. But the company has something interesting going on at its Stratford theatre, staging some rarely seen plays from contemporaries of Shakespeare, including John Fletcher's The Island Princess, an adventure tale of kidnap, rescue, and revenge set in 17th-century Indonesia. The production features live gamelan music and a simple but expressive production design but is marred by histrionic, hammy acting. Shakespeare himself is played everywhere, from the battlefield of Hastings on the English Channel to at least a dozen plays staged in London at any given time. The results are mixed: Two productions of A Midsummer Night's Dream both fail, lacking inspiration and emotional commitment. The U.K. certainly has more than its share of bad, boring acting and directing.

Perhaps the best choice for Shakespeare is a remarkable Twelfth Night at the rebuilt Globe Theatre, replete with the thatched roof and elaborate carved decorations of the original (or as close as researchers can ascertain). The sightlines and acoustics are excellent, and the detailed, ornate reconstruction transports the event back to Shakespeare's time. Tim Carroll's production commemorates the 400th anniversary of this lovely, bittersweet comedy by employing "original practices," meaning that the production adheres to stage techniques and technology available to the original production. No recorded music is used; instead, a nimble ensemble of on-stage musicians plays period instruments. The production is played in the light of day for matinees and the evening performances are lighted with general lighting, not by contemporary theatrical lighting instruments. Even the costumes are in step: No modern zippers, snaps, or laces are used, even on undergarments.

Most important, "original practices" means an all-male cast. The result is a rather startling, fresh theatrical event. The all-male casting might be considered a gimmick concept, but in performance, it actually enhances and clarifies the text, as the gender confusion is given the real focus and weight it deserves. A standout in this company is its artistic director, Mark Rylance, who gives a thoroughly charming and plausible performance as Countess Olivia. Rylance is spectacular as the flustered, love-addled lady, with a wide range of emotional subtext as well as a spot-on comedic sense: This Olivia brings down the house with a simple "Oh..." This is a far cry from Rylance's recent turn as Jay, the sex-hungry tough guy in Patrice Chereau's film Intimacy, which briefly played South Florida this spring.

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