Clueless on Las Olas

Indigo's version, a big pile of chopped romaine and radicchio tossed with roasted garlic-chile-lime vinaigrette and garnished with slabs of very ripe, very orange papaya, wasn't bad. It just wasn't green papaya salad. A polite question to our waitress, who by now had settled on annoyance over ennui,produced a fair amount of consternation and gnashing of teeth -- and the eventual response that the papaya was green on the outside.

Oh.

Colby Katz

At Indigo, what's on the plate is not the problem

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Indigo Restaurant

620 E. Las Olas Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301

Category: Restaurant > International

Region: Fort Lauderdale

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Open Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 11 p.m. Call 954-467-0045.

620 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale

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More About

• Michael Smith
• Matanzas
• Elizabeth Taylor
• Eating Out
• Wine

And by the way, the missing duck? A minor kitchen screwup, sending out chicken instead of quacker. Note to diners: get the duck. It's fabulous, moist and succulent and worth the hassle over the damn salad.

The rest of the meal went like this: Snapper baked in banana leaves was OK, though with none of the elusive, fruity perfume and flavor those shiny green leaves can impart. Grilled, heads-on prawns were a knockout -- four fat suckers, big as a fist but oh-so-much tastier -- bathed in a wickedly pungent marinade redolent of sweet spices and propped up on a bed of fried rice with tricolor peppers.

I'd love to tell you about dessert, maybe some luscious caramelized bananas flamed with rum, or coconut-scented sticky rice with sweet, ripe mango. But no. Cheesecake, tiramisu, crème brûlée, and key lime pie. Wait a minute, did I miss something? Weren't we just in Asia?

Tell you the truth, by this point, it was a relief to go, even into a night so hot and humid that you could reach up and grab a handful of air and wring it out like a wet towel. Dining at Indigo is frustrating, because the place has a lot going for it: great location, skill in the kitchen, that stellar wine list. All it needs is -- repeat after me -- a clue.