Baby Elephant Steps

A blithe ignorance of some restaurant-biz basics keeps Galanga from living large

The sushi was fresh, and we especially liked the Pacific roll, a mix of fish, cream cheese, and masago that gave a nod to the Thai-ness of the eatery with a spicy chili sauce. But, as with chili sauces in general, buyer beware. The green curry sauce, which you can order with chicken, beef, pork, or a shrimp-squid-scallop combo, was just plain searing, unredeemed by any sort of tang or citrus-y counterpoint. A chili-basil sauce, which you can sample with the "drunk noodle" (a nest of pan-fried rice noodles sautéed with chicken or beef), also had a spice quotient astronomical enough to qualify it for NASA.

We attained greater satisfaction from the "house originals" portion of the menu, a sort of mix-and-match arrangement. Basically, you can choose from about a dozen meat, poultry, and seafood items, then select one of the eight sauces to dress them. We found the homemade peanut sauce to be a great foil for roast duck that featured a fat-free, browned skin à la Peking duck. The garlic-white pepper sauce, a wonderfully balanced composition, complemented the tender New Zealand lamb without obscuring the delicate flavor of the meat.

Sushi with all the fixin's. And fresh to boot.
Colby Katz
Sushi with all the fixin's. And fresh to boot.

Location Info


Galanga Thai Kitchen and Sushi Bar

2389 Wilton Drive
Wilton Manors, FL 33305

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Wilton Manors


Lunch Monday-Friday from 11 a.m. till 3 p.m. Dinner nightly from 5 till 11 p.m. Call 954-202-0000.
2389 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors

Main courses -- not served family-style as is the custom in many Asian restaurants -- are individually plated with jasmine rice and spears of broccoli. But that shouldn't stop you from sharing the more successful dishes here. Nor should indifferent service ("You don't want coffee or anything, do you?") keep you from giving Galanga a go. Big, pink elephants aside, the relative sophistication of the eatery, not to mention the owner's apparent dedication to his young venture, virtually promises that problems will be addressed rather than ignored.

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