South Floridians have long known the meaning of "casual upscale" dressing; in fact, given our climate, both literal and cultural, we practically invented the style. But it's been far too long since that concept has been applied to the actual restaurant rather than what patrons wear to it. That's where Lana's Cafe (78 S. Federal Hwy., Boca Raton, 561-750-2494) comes in. The 38-seat eatery's credo is "relaxed tablecloth dining," which means you can order dishes such as duck confit-chèvre-watercress salad or pan-seared filet mignon with horseradish-Gouda sauce and watch them prepared in a state-of-the-art exhibition kitchen without feeling like a food snob. Prices are reasonable too, with appetizers ranging from about $3 to $10, and entrées from $13 to $24. Not only are jacket and pantyhose not required but neither is your entire paycheck -- just a casually upscale piece of it.