Smooth as Satine
If anyone can bring the best of South Beach style to Hollywood, Donna Wynter can-can-can
Vibrant restraint, a culinary oxymoron, marks the main course of spiced shrimp and scallops as well. Napped with but not overwhelmed by an orange-cardamom-ancho chili sauce, the sea scallops in particular shone. The shrimp, however, surrounding a centerpiece of nubbly corn grits like the points on a crown, could have been larger and more succulent; they were seared a little too crisply.
My only other true criticism lies in a minced fish cake that perched atop a grilled salmon fillet. Indeed, the accessory was so aromatic, at first I thought the salmon itself wasn't fresh. Once I discarded the topping, though, I found the salmon to be ideal in both flavor and texture, the flesh medium-rare the way I had ordered it. A ragout of creamed leeks offset the mild, flaky fish, and a side of cinnamon-scented couscous balanced the meal with its subtle starch.
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Satine Restaurant and Grill
3555 S. Ocean Drive
Hollywood, FL 33019
Category: Restaurant >
Region: Hollywood
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Wynter is in the process of changing the menu according to the just-beginning fall season, so you won't be able to score the supple cowboy steak that we savored. Instead, the peppery rib-eye, which lent its softening juices to a partnering quesadilla filled with sweet onion slices and pungent Gorgonzola cheese, will be replaced by a different cut. But if the grilled cowboy steak is any indication of how the Satine kitchen cooks meat, you shouldn't have any worries about being served leather instead of lace.
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