Ghee Whiz

With its excellent Indian cuisine in an unconventional setting, the Palace rules

Although I intended to steer clear of standard tandoori and chicken dishes -- I wanted something more green and vegetable-driven, like the shrimp jalfrezi (tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and broccoli), which the restaurant didn't have in stock -- I allowed myself to be talked into the more familiar butter chicken. "It's our best dish," the waitress promised, and the follow-through confirmed it: Choice pieces of boneless poultry had been roasted in the clay oven, then stewed in a pleasant tomato sauce that had been cut with ghee, or Indian butter. This creamy gravy in particular was delicious over the pullao that came alongside. We also were delighted, instead of relying on a waiter to bring us more, to be able to serve ourselves the saffron-scented basmati rice from the copper pots on the table.

Despite my love for Indian cuisine, which almost always results in a satiation that doesn't permit dessert, my occasional weakness for gulab jamun kicked in, and I ordered the fried milk balls -- to my ultimate disappointment. Overly soaked with rose-flavored syrup, the doughnuts were soggy and grainy. I also didn't care for the texture of a flowery, cardamom-heavy vermicelli kheer, a sort of stringy pasta pudding along the lines (or should I say grains) of rice pudding. The Palace doesn't carry mango ice cream or sorbet, unfortunately, but those looking for that common fruity flavor can find it in a thirst-quenching mango lassi.

Gulab jamun, yellow daal, tandoori chicken, and thou
Colby Katz
Gulab jamun, yellow daal, tandoori chicken, and thou

Location Info

Map

The Palace

6016 Old Congress Road
Lake Worth, FL 33462

Category: Attractions and Amusement Parks

Region: Lake Worth

Details

Lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. till 3 p.m. Dinner nightly from 5 till 10, Saturday and Sunday from 5:30 till 11. Call 954-370-4750.
11422 State Rd. 84, Davie

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Otherwise, you'll see very little mango, along with the other items we stereotypically associate with Indian restaurants -- such as pictures of elephants and red carpeting. Some preparations can be bettered, and seafood can be fresher, but at least in intention the Palace has modernity as a mantra. Whether you're celebrating the daily ritual of dining or the once-in-a-lifetime event of, say, a bar mitzhvah, The Palace provides a contemporary space for it. What else is there to say but l'chaim?

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