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Sing it Loud

Forté Jazz Café brings a strong culinary presence to Fort Lauderdale beach

Take a tail spin at Forté
Colby Katz
Take a tail spin at Forté

Those who've sworn off beef could also indulge in a variety of fish and seafood compositions with a ton of local temptation, including Florida spiny lobster with a cumin drizzle and saffron-lime sauce or baked, stuffed grouper with jumbo lump crabmeat, a touch of Reggiano cheese, and a swirl of key lime beurre blanc. I'd give first chair to the Atlantic mahi-mahi, baked to ultimate tenderness with a garlicky rum sauce in a banana leaf. A mélange of garnishes, most notably caramelized plantains and roasted-root vegetables, also featured a rummy flair, but a portion of annatto-scented rice helped cut the sweet alcoholic notes of the dish.

Which of course meant that despite stomachs being sated, palates get primed for dessert. We encountered the chef one evening when he hand-delivered an apple tart we hadn't ordered, then again when he brought us the correct almond tuile piled high with strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries in sabayon. As a bonus, he let us keep the apple tart, though it reminded us of a rewarmed Danish and paled in comparison to the mixed berries. He then surveyed the dining room and deck and greeted other customers, willingly engaging in conversation about himself, his menu, and the restaurant. Quite honestly, I haven't seen an executive chef in Fort Lauderdale leave his lair since... well, when I remember, I'll let you know. Until then, you'll find me singing the praises of Forté as forte as my lungs allow.

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