The Sunfish Also Rises

At Sunfish Grill, Tony Sindaco is still on top of his game fish

Tony, Tony, Tony
Colby Katz
Tony, Tony, Tony

Is there anything wrong at Sunfish Grill? Yup: the size. Seven years ago, the now-elegant restaurant was a downtrodden luncheonette. Though it has undergone an expansion or two and is attractive with primary earth-and-sky colors and white linen-covered tables, the 40-seat place is overwhelmingly small for the number of hopefuls who come to the door. In addition, the open kitchen that runs along one side of the restaurant sends out so much smoke, I wouldn't be surprised if the residents who live across the causeway think the Grill is sending signals. Perhaps it is -- after several years' absence, I know I've been pulled back in.

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