Feel Good Foo Yung

China Breeze offers fresh, meticulously prepared Chinese comfort food

On-the-spot preparation elevated platters of fried rice, particularly when it came to the yang chow version, a soy sauce-free sauté of white short-grained rice, peas, ham, roast pork, scrambled egg, and bean sprouts. Fried rice is trickier than most people think -- if the grains are too old, the rice will be dried out and hard. If they're too fresh, though, stirring them in a wok could break down the structure and make the dish more like risotto. China Breeze's version was excellent, with the rice lightly al dente but not dessicated.

Main courses such as the "dragon and phoenix," a duo of lobster tail sautéed in ginger and scallions and General Tso's chicken, also benefited from attention to detail. The lobster, still in its shell but sectioned for easy removal, was succulent and buttery, while the chicken, breaded and then coated with a garlic-chili pepper sauce that offered a satisfying zing, made for a good textural contrast. According to legend, General Tso's chicken was named for the warrior who ate this dish for strength and courage; according to philosophy, the dragon-phoenix metaphor overall symbolizes harmony and balance. I say we ship vats of the stuff to Iraq. It may not help end the war, but it will certainly be a relief from Army rations.

Koi-filled fish tanks, roomy booths, lazy Susans, and comfort-level food
Rocki Cook
Koi-filled fish tanks, roomy booths, lazy Susans, and comfort-level food

Location Info

Map

China Breeze

3331 Sheridan St.
Hollywood, FL 33021

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: Hollywood

Details

Call 954-963-6777. Lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. till 10 p.m. Dinner Sunday from 4 till 10 p.m.
3331 Sheridan St., Hollywood

By even-handedly assuring quality and à la minute presentation, China Breeze already sets itself apart. But it goes one step further by listing Peking duck on its daily menu -- meaning you don't have to order this three-dish-in-one meal 24 hours in advance. If you feel like crisp duck skin, wrapped with scallions and hoisin sauce in delicate pancakes, immediately shadowed by somewhat anemic roasted drumsticks and wings, which themselves are followed by a goodly amount of the bird's dark meat sautéed with water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and broccoli in a savory brown sauce, just ask, and satisfaction, like vanilla ice cream and complimentary fortune cookies, is yours. As are takeout containers, a necessity at China Breeze that is also the quintessence of American-Chinese dining in general.

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