I can't help but admire a biz that shows initiative. Take Dairy In (3980 W. Hillsboro Blvd., Deerfield Beach, 954-428-3999), an ice cream parlor tucked in next to the Muvico complex on Hillsboro Boulevard. A remake of a Dairy Queen, with an i replacing the "Quee" on the neon sign, Dairy In is a well-chosen moniker. Ice cream certainly is in the house, ranging from soft-serve to hard-packed to prepacked (as in Popsicles and Good Humor bars). But an even better appellation might be Dairy In and Out, because unbelievably enough, this place delivers. Granted, you might not want to order a cone brought to your door. But if you live close enough, you can order a cup of barely melted soft-serve vanilla, with an added ribbon of flavors ranging from cotton candy to caramel. A small menu provides a number of munchies too: wings, chicken nuggets, fried mushrooms, onion rings. These are deep-fried nothings you don't actually need an appetite to gum down with gusto. Taken together on a Blockbuster kind of night, this kind of service and eats are indeed, well, sweet.