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Scale the Mountain

The ravioli fared much better. Who would argue with anything stuffed with white truffles? Of course, truffles can be tricky. Their intense flavor should be savored only in small amounts -- indeed, there wasn't much inside these four pillowy ravioli covered smoothly in a cream sauce with just the right touch of salt and garlic. Five dollars per ravioli?

As is so often the case in modern restaurants, desserts are off-the-rack. Tramonti produces only a cannoli ($6) on site. But Pastry Chef Alex Olano can breathe easily; the cannoli lives up to the rest of the meal. The crust was crisp and not overly fried, and the harmonic convergence of sugar, cinnamon, and ricotta was Bach-like.

Joe Rocco

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Tramonti

119 E. Atlantic Ave.
Delray Beach, FL 33444

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Delray Beach

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Lunch 11:30 a.m. till 3 p.m. Monday to Saturday. Dinner 5 till 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, till midnight Friday and Saturday.
119 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561-272-1944.

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Pedigree goes only so far. Though Tramonti has been birthed by a successful parent, a new restaurant opens with only a temporary blessing.

Despite these high stakes, Tramonti has succeeded at being many local diners' favorite night out on an avenue that is fast becoming what Ocean Drive used to be and Las Olas wishes it were. In the perish-or-die world of Atlantic Avenue restaurants, this achievement is no mean feast.

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