Arroz con Mario

New location, same great time at Catalina

When you call Catalina Restaurant on Saturday afternoon to make a dinner reservation, Mario Flores might say something like, "Oh honey, you don't need no reservation tonight. You come on down, Mario will find a table for you."

But I urge you, be as suspicious as a canary in a room full of amiable cats. Resist the impulse to be flattered by the implication that for you, honey, Flores will move heaven, Earth, and the fat lady dripping with diamonds. Be hard-headed and practical. Insist on a reservation.

Because if you fall for Flores' reassurances, honey, you're going to find your fanny parked in a comfortable leather chair between a stack of menus and an urn filled with pink orchids. You'll have plenty of time to peruse those menus, even to gnaw on their edges a little, while the parties who did insist on reservations are being seated. By the time some lingering couple decides to finish their last nibble of flan and drain the dregs of their Cuban coffee, to give their mouths a final swipe, push back their chairs with a sigh, and vacate the table you've long since come to think of as yours, you're going to be seriously pondering how a pink orchid might taste.

Location Info

Map

Mario's Catalina Restaurant

1611 N. Federal Highway
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304

Category: Restaurant > Cuban

Region: Fort Lauderdale

Mario's Catalina Restaurant

3331 NE 33rd St.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33308

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Beaches

Details

Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily. Call 954-563-4141.
1611 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale.

Of course, there's a third option. You can always hop across the room and take a stool at the bar, but I don't advise it. The bartender is a mojito fiend -- he makes 200 of those babies a night from scratch -- and they go down mighty smooth. Sit there for 45 minutes sucking mint-laced muddled sugar through a straw and you're unlikely to be able to articulate the words ropa vieja by the time that tender, 16-year-old boy, shy as a fawn, leads you to your table.

So make the reservation. You'll enjoy yourself mightily at Flores' Catalina, and I don't want anything to stand in the way of your fantastically good time -- certainly not some quartet of swells who waltz in saying, "McGillicuddy, party of four."

The original Catalina, on NE 33rd Street, has been sold ("Honey, one restaurant is enough for anybody -- I don't need two!"), but Flores' new place on Federal Highway is snazzy. They've dressed up the wedge-shaped room with distressed white-tile floors, terra cotta-colored walls, gleaming carved wooden screens, and mismatched chandeliers that shed soft light. A gilt mirror is stuck here and there between the oil paintings. Servers hustle around, grabbing bottles from the wine rack at the back of the room, refilling water glasses, replenishing mojitos. An outdoor patio under an arbor twinkling with lights was filled with multicolored birthday balloons and guests last time we were there.

I have the feeling that an awful lot of people find themselves enfolded in Flores' elegant, wiry arms and lavishly bussed on the cheek, because he seems to know everyone. If his lithe, light-footed little figure is any indication, the man gets around. His clientele is composed of extremely handsome gay men wearing wonderful shirts; beautiful, young, straight couples in love; middle-aged matrons shimmering with gold jewelry; well-to-do corporate types; and many repeat customers of all ethnicities, sizes, ages, and shapes.

The Cuban-Spanish menu includes seven weighty appetizers, half a dozen salads, beef, chicken, and fish entrées, and house specials. Everything comes with rice, a bowl of black beans, and a couple of grilled sweet plantains. All the meals begin with Flores' green salad -- apples, carrots, tomatoes, and chopped romaine in a dressing so sour, salty, and flecked with pepper that you'll gobble it down puckering and sniffling (and drink a gallon of water next day to rehydrate). You won't leave a shred uneaten.

If you're that smart party of four who booked a table and arrived early, the Catalina appetizer, $19.95, is a great way to begin. You get luscious empanadas -- spiced ground beef rolled inside flaky pastry -- tamales, ham croquettes, pork with white onions, and a luxurious, citrusy mojo of olive oil, chopped onions, and peppers. If you're not ravenous, though, try a plate of toasty empanadas ($5.95) and a single, silky Cuban tamale ($8.95) with a side of shredded roast pork. Those tamales had substantial heft and the texture of a tropical rain cloud: They're served with their corn husk unwrapped, the ham chopped very fine inside a rich, ground-corn filling fragrant with stock. The whole thing holds together seamlessly, and it's as smooth as a kiss. You'll wake up craving it the next morning.

"Are you feeling good?" Flores asked us in passing. He was halfway across the room before we could mumble a "yes" through our crumbs. It was a rhetorical question -- anybody with two mojitos and one of Mario's tamales inside them is going to feel great, and he knows it.

Our cute waiter delivered a plate of a "Mario's combination" ($23.95) and skirt steak churrasco Argentina ($16.95). The combination showcases two of Catalina's popular dishes, a generous portion of that tart and spicy shredded roast pork sautéed with onions and a thin snapper fillet; the fish is rolled in ground green plantains and fried to a golden crunch, topped with three or four grilled shrimp, pink and luscious, and ladled with butter sauce. Our herbed, marinated skirt steak, invariably dry and tough in less accomplished hands, was moist and tender, even the next day, when we gave our leftovers a quick toss in the pan. The buttery grilled plantains that accompanied both plates were like a big, fat bite of sweet potato pie. There wasn't an element of either entrée that wasn't perfectly prepared and deeply satisfying.

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