Seafood Soup for the Soul

At Kiko, the omurice is nice, the sushi is dandy, and the prices are nicer

A Neptune roll ($10.95) filled with octopus, crab, conch, shrimp, salmon, tuna, and yellowtail looked beautiful but, for all its wealth of seafood, didn't have much flavor. Someone had forgotten the spicy mayo, and when it arrived at our request, it wasn't hot enough to kick this roll into motion. But a deep-fried, crunchy kamikaze roll ($8.95) made with salmon, crab, cream cheese, and scallions and drizzled with eel sauce and sweet-sour chef sauce was scrumptious. Salmon and cream cheese is a combo that won't quit; somebody ought to patent the idea of deep-frying it.

Even so, in spite of all the deliciousness that had gone before it, our huge omurice ($8.95) turned out to be this meal's superstar. We scratched our heads over omurice (the Japanese say om-u-li-su) until we realized it's just what it sounds like -- an omelet stuffed with rice. Omurice is a completely bastardized Western-Japanese fast food; in the Land of the Rising Sun, they even serve them at Denny's, dousing them with ketchup the way we do our scrambled eggs. It's easy to see why the omurice has become Japan's version of the Big Mac: This silly, satisfying culinary chimera was awesome. Kiko's version studs slippery fried rice with soybeans, chopped carrots, mushrooms, peas, and juicy pieces of chicken and rolls it all together inside a crisply browned egg crepe. It has a terrifically rich mouth feel that makes it hard to stop gobbling, and probably a gazillion calories. We weren't offered the Heinz bottle, and we didn't need it. Marvelous.

Joe Rocco

Location Info



801 S. University Drive
Plantation, FL 33324

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Davie/West Hollywood


Open 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily. Call 954-473-0077.
801 S. University Dr., Plantation

The obligatory dish of green-tea ice cream ($3) arrived, its flavor reminiscent of newly mown fields, sweet and grassy, so we surreptitiously let our belts out a notch. We'd eaten enough to feed our inner armies, and the final bill was still monkishly spare. "If you eat only three-quarters full, you won't need a doctor," goes the Japanese proverb. That's tough advice to follow at Kiko.

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