Sexi Mexi

Two new Boca restaurants head south of the border

I ordered camarones Silvana ($18.95) for an entrée; it's a meal I won't forget soon. Grilled shrimp, gently charred, are arranged around a tlaocoyo (a light and buttery masa cake) stuffed with a paste made from black beans. Then it's drizzled with chipotle and a pitch-black calamari ink sauce that tastes like a heavily reduced red wine touched with the scent of oceans. The whole thing is just unbearably delicious, but the tlaocoyo is a revelation. My spouse's thick, double-cut roast pork chop ($17.95) was juicy and peppery, enlivened by a tart mango barbeque sauce and served over garlic mashed potatoes, a big portion of unique comfort food. It comes to the table wearing a little sombrero of a dumpling crammed full of spinach and a toasted pecan. So yummy.

And for a sweet ending: crepas de cajeta -- a flour and egg crepe draped in the traditional Mexican goat's milk caramel sauce and laced with brandy, then dotted with sugared pecans (a recipe Brodziak must have made often at Tamayo, which still serves it.)

Location Info

Map

MoQuila Restaurant and Tequila Bar

99 SE Mizner Blvd.
Boca Raton, FL 33432

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Boca Raton

Details

Lunch Tuesday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday till 10 p.m., Sunday till 9 p.m. Sunday Sangria Brunch 10 a.m. till 2:30 p.m. / Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dinner daily from 4 p.m. to midnight.
21073 Powerline Rd., Boca Raton. Call 561-479-2332. / 140 Plaza Real South, Boca Raton. Call 561-394-9990.

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Silvana's menu, for its great delicacy and creativity, is a few notches above MoQuila's more heavy-handed fare. But it's not exactly party central, and it's way out in some godforsaken strip mall on Powerline Road. Brodziak plans to obtain a liquor license at some point, and the wine list could use some work -- this tiny handful of midpriced Chilean and California wines doesn't meet the standards of the food. But what a lovely place this is: gentle, unassuming, and with a shining inner beauty. Which restaurant you eventually take up with depends on how you swing: MoQuila is Paris Hilton to Silvana's Penelope Cruz. If you're greedy for experience, you'll fall in love with both.

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