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A Child Was Born in Hoboken

Happy holidays with greens and red sauce

A A A Comments By Gail Shepherd Thursday, Dec 22 2005

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Joe Rocco

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Kitchenetta

2850 N. Federal Highway
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33306-1426

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Wilton Manors

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Kitchenetta: 2850 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale. Open 5:50 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 3:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Call 954-567-3333.

Papa Pistola's: 2980 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale. Open daily 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m. Call 954-630-9388.

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This happy arrangement of textures and shapes makes dining at Kitchenetta such a pleasure. Each plate delights and surprises, without the over-the-top effects of other trendy kitchens. A grilled skirt steak ($18), marinated to a melting tenderness and served with a side of "Italian herb sauce" (i.e., chimichurri) was first-rate, although the roasted potatoes with it were cold. It hardly mattered. We had no room for potatoes at this point. We were done in.

The sound system at Kitchenetta that night was emitting cool and jazzy Nancy Wilson tunes — we'd have to wait until we got home to spin the Sinatra. But his elegant spirit reigned. Sinatra was a man who loved his meat. He really would have dug that skirt steak.

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