Oh, Say Can You Sea

Unlike some, this restaurant on the water makes a splash.

We had a bit of an entrée auction when our main plates came out, as the servers couldn't remember who got what. The ravioli pomodoro ($16) stuffed with ricotta and served in the same sauce as the meatballs, was a good, home-style dish without any special touches to make it particularly memorable. A special, the pesce delgiorno ($28), was an excellent, thick fillet of alabaster sea bass topped with melting sautéed eggplant, salty black olives, chopped tomatoes, capers, and mushrooms — strong flavors and varied textures that complemented this robust and oily fish. A tasteless square of polenta came with it. I splurged on two South African lobster tails ($41), touted on the menu as being the finest of all lobster meat. These are worth every one of your hard-earned pennies if you're a lobster lover — they're some of the most luxurious mouthfuls I've ever eaten. Beautifully presented, bursting out of their shells, they were sweet, clean-tasting, flawlessly pale, and tender without a hint of mushiness. While I was eating, I thought about how Americans once considered lobster fit only for the poor and smiled at the unintended justice of it. Still, why these elegant and expensive treats were served with tasteless brown potatoes and overcooked, sour asparagus, is a mystery only the kitchen can answer.

A chocolate soufflé ($9) for dessert was nothing of the sort. We know what a soufflé is, even if the management doesn't — it's that miraculously airy custard, fussed over and cooked in a water bath, that comes puffed up and hot from the oven — the one the French are famous for. This thing was some kind of (I'm guessing, pre-frozen) cake with a somewhat liquid center. The cake was dry, and the center was flavorless, and it wasn't worth half of the nine bucks they were charging for it. My glass of sambuca ($8.50) was a far better bargain.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

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Ristorante Luna Rosa

2096 NE 2nd St.
Deerfield Beach, FL 33441

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Deerfield Beach

Details

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily from 6 a.m. till 10 p.m. Brunch Saturday and Sunday. Call 954-429-8386.
2096 NE Second St., Deerfield Beach

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Would I go back? You bet. I'd elbow my way in for a view of the pink sky at sunset, I'd have seconds of those meatballs and lobster tails (hold the sides!); I'd check out the fresh fish. I'd order my wine by the bottle (they have an excellent list of Italians) and drink my dessert. And I have no doubt I'd be a happy woman. In the meantime, I hope somebody's learning how to toss oil in a salad and boil a bunch of asparagus.

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